Protest from the Roof of the World
The recent headlines I read about the turmoil in Tibet, take me back almost twenty years. In May 1988, I was in Tibet and witnessed demonstrations myself. It was a little easier for the Chinese to control the news then… they just confiscated cameras and film and forced all foreigners to leave. Now the eyes of the World are upon them with the upcoming 2008 Summer Olympics. Will that make a difference? I hope so. The cultural annihilation of Tibet has gone on long enough. But even as I write this, the Tibet story has slipped from the major news outlets. I had to go to the Radio Free Asia website to find an update. Also, according to the official website of the Central Tibetan Administration, Chinese authorities have now stepped up what they call a Patriotic Re-education campaign, particularly within monasteries. We know what that means. And today, Tibetan exiles protested in front of the White House. Following are a few notes from my 1988 travel journal:TIBET
May 1988, Travel Journal
After looking at the few rebuilt buildings, we join Tibetan pilgrims making their clockwise circumambulation around the Gompa (monastery); it is similar to the Catholic Stations of the Cross. On the hillside along the trail there are small shrubs with a purple blossom. I could see bits of wool and animal hair placed within the branches. For a culture that does not believe in killing, it is a way of asking for a good reincarnation for the souls of animals that have been slaughtered for food. Incense burners are positioned along the path, and I watched as pilgrims place a pungent herb into the juniper wood-fed fire. I also see them pick some type of plant that grows along the path and throw it into the air.
At the backside of the mountain, I sat beside the pilgrims walk to rest and quietly absorb the beauty of a wide green river valley framed by snow-capped mountains. The sun is warm on my back. I put a tape of music into my Walkman. Two little boys have been watching me, so I motion for them to come over. I give them the earphones and their faces light up in wonder. An elderly, bald-headed Tibetan woman approaches, and I let her listen too. Then she begins talking to me in her own language – I think she is telling me about her ailments. Does she think I have special powers? Music coming from a mysterious box must seem like magic to these people, and at that moment I wished I did have the magic to make her well. As she leaves, she bids me goodbye in the traditional Tibetan way, by opening her mouth and sticking out her tongue. I am honored.
This morning I visited the Jokhang Temple. It is the holiest place in all of Tibet, and within its walls lays a Buddha statue created during Buddha’s own lifetime, over 2,000 years ago. The Temple is open to pilgrims today, and in front of the temple many of them arrive doing continuous lengthwise prostrations of their bodies. Holding a block of wood in each hand, they flatten their body to the ground with arms stretched before them, placing the blocks of wood to mark where their hands touch. Then they stand on that mark, pick up the blocks of wood and repeat the process. By slow measured body-length movements they move towards the sacred shrine. This is how once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimages are made, to gain religious merit; it may take days or weeks over rough terrain to get from the pilgrim’s village to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. Yesterday as we traveled the main road to Ganden monastery, I had seen a man doing this measured prostration along the river plain, on his pilgrimage to the Jokhang.
A steady stream of pilgrims enters the Temple; slowly they wind their way into and out of the many side chapels. They bring traditional offerings of yak butter or tsampa, a roasted barley flour. As I mingle with the pilgrims, one will occasionally smile and flash the victory sign to me; in Tibet, the two-fingered V means “Free Tibet.” I am a foreigner and the Tibetans want me to take their message to the rest of the world.
A young Tibetan monk who speaks excellent English becomes my guide. Dressed in his maroon robe, he takes me to the Temple’s rooftop where we can speak openly, without fear of being overheard. We have already been told of Chinese spies within the ranks of Buddhist monks. The young monk tells me a little of his background. He was educated (re-educated or indoctrinated would be better words) in China, as are many of the Tibetan youth. He has been a monk for three years. To become a monk he first went to a lama, (teacher monk), and then he had to obtain permission from the Chinese to begin training. He says many boys would like to become monks but are not allowed. Some dress as monks even though they are not, which is dangerous for them because they can be imprisoned for being ‘illegal.’ According to him, “The Chinese hold the strings.” His mentor left Tibet for a visit to India. Later the older monk sent a letter to his young student, saying that he might not return, and if the young monk wanted to leave also, the older monk would help him. According to this young Buddhist monk, many monks are leaving Tibet. “It is not good for us here.” When this monk returned to Lhasa from his education in China, he enrolled in an English school that had recently opened. But when demonstrations broke out in October of last year (1987), all foreigners were forced to leave Tibet, including his English teacher. (He had been in the classroom at the English School when the demonstration occurred.) His fellow monks took refuge in the Jokhang Temple, locking themselves in. The Chinese broke down the locked doors and dragged the monks away, including a friend of his. No one has seen or heard from the monks since that time, nor do they know where they are - or if they are alive. The demonstration I saw yesterday in front of the temple was a protest by nuns and monks asking for those who are missing. Demonstrations take place almost weekly, with the participants usually hauled away and never heard from again. Many injuries and unofficial deaths. Note: (What I saw went unreported.)
... P. L. Morningstar


















