
This morning I combed through the box of travel journals and finally found the very first one lying at the bottom of the box. When I found it I was disappointed. Shouldn’t the heart of Africa deserve more than little half-page entries for each day? Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River, Livingstone, wild elephants, lions, giraffes, and zebras? My handwriting is large, so here are these cramped little notations that say so little about a trip that started it all. There are my photographs, thank goodness, and I can still remember that wonderful, scary feeling that comes from doing something out of the ordinary realm of day-to-day living. The first words for the April 26, 1982 entry were, “What am I doing here?”
I had accompanied my former husband to South Africa where he had business. From there I flew to Zimbabwe (formerly Southern Rhodesia), traveling on my own for the first time in my life. A small town girl from Oregon. The fact that the road from the airport carried mostly military vehicles, and an armored tank with soldiers kept a roadside surveillance, might have had something to do with my wonderment at what I was doing there. I also experienced what it was like to be a minority, a white woman in a sea of black male faces. “I feel very uncomfortable and strange,” I wrote. What I thought was, this must be what it is like to be a black person in Oregon (in the 1980’s).

An older British couple had flown in on the same plane as I had. They too had ridden the bus from the airport to the Victoria Falls Hotel, a grand old Edwardian hotel built in 1904. When I entered the hotel dining room that first evening, they saw me and invited me to join them. They were independent travelers, as many older British people are, exploring what was once the far-reaching British Empire. Their names were Elsie and Victor Cherry from Manchester, England. We joined forces for the next few days, holding umbrellas over our heads as we walked in the mist of Victoria Falls, enjoying a Zambezi River Sunset Cruise, and crossing the bridge over the Zambezi River into Zambia. Elsie was a little scattered - absentmindedly leaving a bag of money at the border crossing in Zambia - and Victor stoically soldiered on. They were a delight and we exchanged Christmas cards for the next few years. When I went on to the Safari Lodge at Wankie National Park, the Cherry’s flew to the archeological ruins of the Great Zimbabwe.
My journal does little more than mention the mist-soaked paths, lush vegetation, and wet hair plastered to my head as I hiked beneath the roaring Victoria Falls… also called “The Smoke That Thunders.” I saw elephants and zebras, giraffes and gazelles, but all I wrote was, “Up at 5 am and out in the Range Rover by 6:15. Highlight was seeing male and female lions come to a drinking hole.” How boring is that for detail? Thank goodness my later adventures grew beyond a half page description.
... P. L. Morningstar (Photos by Morningstar)